sorry for my bad english…
the Restaurant « Le Chambard » and the Marcel Deiss Estate offered to a « Deiss Dinner » which was the opportunity to taste again the pleasures of the pairing of good food and good wine …
Thursday (Ascension) May 17, 2012, Kaysersberg, the Restaurant « Chambard », 19.45: The majority of the forty guests is already posted in the reception room, waiting room fort the famous dinner.
With my wife, we find Mr. and Mrs. Deiss, Mathieu Deiss, Boris Kacheloffer their vineyard manager, Florian Mercandelli the sommelier of the domain.
We also crosses Thierry Meyer, wine journalist surely the finest Alsace wine connoisseur, David Lefevre, winemaker and journalist and “minerality expert”, which he described.
There are a lot of equally illustrious strangers who are not less desirable, wherever they come from because we hear much more « foreign » languages spoken in the room.
A few minutes later, Jean-Michel Deiss and his son Matthew introduced some 2011 wine-babies directly taken from the casks. The premiere marketing campaign will be launched soon.
But the assembly is hungry, and we sit down to eat.
≈ ≈ PLACEMENT
L’Escargot with parsley emulsion,
Fish tartare with lemon juice
egg, parmesan emulsion
≈ GREEN ASPARAGUS, SAFFRON and CRAYFISH
It’s difficult to pair wine with « white » asparagus. But the green, without any greenness moreover, fits perfectly with crayfish, and the magnificent Rotenberg actually magnifies the dish, gives relief and brings a ray of sunshine. While the pairing might seem skeptical, tasting is always better than reading !
≈ Artic Char,
bacon and pike quenelles
This dish was amazing! This pairing proves that we should not crush the delicate aromas of a fish dish with a wine whose plot would be too thick.
Here, the agreement on the delicacy brings out the textures and flavors of the milder dish, and hollandaise sauce was incredible fine and smooth does not yet dominate the infinite tenderness fish.
≈ Mieral GUINEA FOWL
IN A CRUST
WITH ROASTED SESAME
CARROTS AND LEMON ≈
Here is the « famous Schoffweg ». Here, the dish and the wine speak and answer ! Sesame is definitely a magical plant that responds to subtle bold wine, releasing aromas of hazelnut in the tooth, while the lemon is associated with carrots due to « melt acidity » of the wine.
≈ PIGEONNEAU – (PIGEON)
MASHED POTATOES COMPRESSED AS A LARGE FRIES
Burlenberg 2003 (Red)
Gruenspiel 2004 (white)
Yes, once again pigeon, it’s just recurrent in gourmet restaurants. But once in front of the dish, we find the delicacy of a perfectly cooked. Do not hesitate even in those restaurants to put the nose above the plate to take the measure of flavors that make it up : this is extremely varied and rich, and it was here too, of course.
The Burlenberg is a red wine, and as Gruenspiel he requires a little time to offer its charms.
A too short decanting and the Burlenberg was out of breathing. He needs more time to get out of his glass prison.
This wine needs to be approached as a stallion and demands a great attention. Look through, never loses sight, never turn your back, no sudden movements, just whisper, and gradually he straightens the ears, and calms down.
It is ultimately the wine that comes to you, his wild beauty once rid of its roughness, and deploys an amazing silky in the hollow of the mouth, and an incredible diversity of flavors, ad a no ending complexity.
Besides, Gruenspiel takes us into the joyful pleasure, accompanying the dish as a jokes friend. An agreement of friends based on a feast of textures.
≈ VANILLA PANACOTTA, SABLE BRETON
GUARIGETTES STRAWBERRIES AND PEPPER ≈
Grand Cru Altenberg de Bergheim 2002
So here it is noted for tasting amateurs like me that a wine does not have the same face with a dish than when tasted separately. Especially a great wine ! Here, the Altenberg shows a perfect balance in the pairing, with a hefty serving in aroma and taste: Vanilla, pepper, sanded, and without talking about the lemon in the panacotta, the meeting was the dessert, without overwriting the true taste of strawberry.
The great wealth in the broadest sense of the Altenberg perfectly met this dessert, supported by a fine acidity that the amateur almost not perceives when that wine is drunk alone.
The whole forms what is a rare alchemy of the wine and dish pairing.
I must admit that after the Arnsbourg Deiss Dinner, and having visited the Nasti brothers restaurant meantime, I did not feel an urgent need to renew this Deiss-Experience in Chambard.
Fortunately my wife urged me to invite her, and I must say that I do not regret it, but in addition, the dinner allowed me to access other dimensions in the wine and dish pairing.
While I was always looking for the perfect date, what I denominate alchemy or the major chord, it occurred to me during this dinner new sensations : Each pairing carries its own landscape. The color of the wine intersects the relief of the dish for a unique encounter. We could also talk of atmosphere.
Many Thanks to the Deiss family, for giving us to live this beautiful evening.